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A cabinet door that hangs crooked does not always need every visible screw tightened. Many concealed hinges have separate screws for attachment and alignment. Turning the wrong one can move the door sideways or change its depth while leaving the loose connection untouched.

Open the door carefully, support its weight, and watch the hinge while moving the door a small amount. The place where movement occurs tells you what needs attention.

Identify the hinge and its adjustments

A concealed cup hinge usually attaches to the door through a round cup and to the cabinet through a mounting plate. Other cabinets use simpler surface-mounted or traditional hinges. Look up the particular hinge if its functions are unclear. Record any hinge and mounting-plate markings before ordering a replacement; two similar cups can use different plate systems and adjustment arrangements. A matching finish or cup appearance alone does not establish compatibility.

Distinguish mounting screws from adjustment screws before turning anything. A photograph of the original positions can help you keep track. Some clip-on hinges can also become partly disengaged from their plates.

If the cabinet has soft-close hardware, check that the damping mechanism is intact. A broken damper or bent hinge may need replacement rather than further adjustment.

Support the door before tightening

Hold the door in a comfortable open position or use a helper for a large panel. Protect nearby surfaces and keep fingers clear of the hinge's moving parts. Do not let a heavy door hang from one partially attached hinge.

Use a hand screwdriver with the exact tip shape and size. Apply enough inward pressure to keep the tip seated, then tighten loose mounting screws gradually. Avoid a power driver for this delicate final control.

Watch the mounting plate or hinge leaf as the screw turns. It should settle firmly against sound material. Stop as soon as the connection is snug rather than adding extra force for reassurance.

Recognize a stripped mounting hole

If the screw keeps turning without clamping, the material may no longer hold its threads. Particleboard can crumble, and a screw near the edge may break through a thin wall of material. A larger screw is not automatically a safe solution.

Inspect the surrounding area for swelling, cracks, and previous repairs. A water-damaged cabinet side needs a different repair from one isolated worn hole in sound wood.

Use a repair method compatible with the cabinet material and hinge system. Approved repair plates or inserts may be options for some designs. A solid-wood plug repair requires suitable preparation, adhesive curing, and redrilling; it should not be assumed appropriate for every composite panel.

Adjust alignment only after the attachment is sound

Once both hinges are secure, close the door gently and inspect the gaps. Compare the top, bottom, and neighboring doors. Make small adjustments using the hinge manufacturer's directions, changing one setting at a time.

A lateral adjustment moves the door sideways, while other adjustments may change height or depth. Their positions differ by model. Count small turns or note the change so you can reverse an unhelpful adjustment.

Do not use alignment screws to compensate for a loose plate. The door may look correct briefly while the damaged attachment continues to move.

Check the complete motion

Open and close the door several times. Confirm that it clears neighboring fronts, closes without scraping, and stays supported throughout its travel. Listen for clicking or watch for the plate lifting away from the cabinet.

If the hinge is bent, the cup is loose in broken material, or the door is unusually heavy, arrange a proper replacement or cabinet repair. Keep a failing door from being used until it is safe.

A successful hinge repair feels uneventful: the screws hold, the gaps remain consistent, and the door moves without needing a lift or sideways push.