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A door that suddenly rubs is giving you a clue about movement. The hinge screws may have loosened, the wood may have swollen, or the frame may have shifted. Sanding the sticking edge immediately can remove good material while leaving the real cause untouched.

Begin with a slow inspection of the closed door. Notice where the gaps narrow and where fresh rub marks appear. That pattern helps separate a simple hardware adjustment from a problem that deserves a closer look. Photograph the gap at the top and latch side before changing anything. After one permitted adjustment, compare those same gaps rather than judging only whether you can push the door shut.

Find the contact point

Open and close the door gently without forcing it. Look at the top corner on the latch side, the floor clearance, and the latch's alignment with the strike plate. A flashlight can help reveal shiny paint or compressed wood where contact occurs.

Check whether the problem changes with humidity or appeared after painting. Seasonal swelling and a thick paint edge may behave differently from a door that has visibly dropped at the latch side.

If several doors begin sticking together, or you see new wall cracks and frame movement, stop treating the problem as an isolated hinge issue. Have the broader condition assessed before trimming anything.

Inspect the hinges with the door supported

Use a stable wedge or suitable support beneath the door to reduce strain while checking hardware. Keep fingers away from the hinge gap and the bottom edge. Heavy doors may require a helper or professional handling.

Look for loose screws in both the door leaf and the jamb leaf. Use a correctly fitting screwdriver and tighten gently by hand. Watch whether the hinge leaf draws firmly against its recess.

A screw that turns without tightening has lost its grip. More turning will not restore it, and an oversized replacement can split the wood or interfere with the hinge.

Treat damaged holes as a separate repair

The appropriate repair depends on the door, jamb, screw, and load. Solid wood may allow a properly fitted wood repair and redrilling after the adhesive cures. Composite jambs and damaged material may need another method or replacement.

Do not automatically install a much longer screw. You need to know what lies behind the jamb, whether framing is positioned to receive it, and what length the door manufacturer permits. Excessive tightening can pull the jamb out of alignment.

Fire-rated, security, and exterior door assemblies can have additional requirements. Changes to their hinges, fasteners, or clearances should follow the assembly's specifications.

Recheck before changing the strike plate

After correcting loose hinge hardware, remove the support and test the swing. The latch may now meet the strike without adjustment. Moving the strike too early can create a second problem that must be undone later.

If the latch still misses slightly, inspect the intended adjustment options. Some strike plates allow limited movement, but enlarging holes or filing metal should be a deliberate step based on the remaining misalignment.

A bent hinge, worn pin, or damaged door edge may require replacement hardware rather than repeated screw adjustments.

Leave planing for a confirmed fit problem

Removing wood is permanent. Only consider it after the hinges, frame, moisture conditions, and required clearances have been evaluated. Older paint may need special handling before sanding or cutting.

For a minor non-rated interior door, a qualified repairer can determine whether trimming and resealing the edge is appropriate. If the door closes smoothly after a hardware correction, test it several times and check that the latch engages without lifting or pushing the door sideways. That simple behavior is a better result than a newly sanded edge masking a continuing sag.