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A loose hex nut and a stubborn round part may sit inches apart, but they call for different tools. An adjustable wrench bears against the flat sides of a nut or bolt. Pliers squeeze an object between their jaws. That difference determines how well you can control the repair and whether the hardware survives without tooth marks.

For ordinary household work, keep both tools available. Choosing between them takes only a moment once you look closely at the part you need to move.

Use a wrench where the hardware has flats

An adjustable wrench is useful for exposed nuts on furniture, small assembly projects, and suitable plumbing connections. Open its jaws just enough to slip over the hardware, then turn the adjustment wheel until the fit is snug. Seat the jaws fully rather than catching the outer corners.

Keep the wrench square to the fastener. A tilted tool concentrates pressure on a narrow edge and can round the nut. When access allows, orient the wrench so the turning force loads its fixed jaw, following the tool maker's directions. Pull steadily with your hand clear of nearby sharp edges.

If the jaws keep opening, stop and inspect the adjustment and jaw condition. Repeated slippage after correct adjustment is a reason to take the wrench out of use, not squeeze it harder or keep resetting it for every turn. Use another sound, correctly fitted tool. For repeated work on one size, a correctly sized combination wrench or socket usually provides a more dependable fit. Do not extend the handle with a pipe to force a stuck connection.

Choose pliers for holding and positioning

Slip-joint pliers handle modest gripping jobs, such as holding a small bracket while another fastener turns. Tongue-and-groove pliers open wider and can hold larger irregular parts. Needle-nose pliers reach small clips and bent wire in tight spaces, but their narrow tips are poor substitutes for a full-size wrench.

Set adjustable pliers so their handles remain comfortably separated when the jaws touch the work. If the handles nearly meet, your grip may be weak or your fingers may be pinched. Reposition the joint before squeezing harder.

Serrated jaws can damage chrome, soft brass, and painted surfaces. A strap wrench may suit a finished round part better, provided the part is intended to turn. Wrapping a fitting with a rag offers limited protection and does not prevent crushing.

Keep the rest of the assembly still

Turning one connection can twist everything attached to it. Where the manufacturer's procedure calls for it, use a second correctly fitted tool to hold the neighboring component stationary. This is especially important around thin tubing and fittings whose movement could create a leak elsewhere.

Never use pliers on a flexible supply hose to gain leverage. Likewise, do not assume every plastic nut should be tightened with a metal tool. Many household connections require hand tightening followed by a specific small adjustment, and others use a different method entirely.

For a water connection, shut off the supply and confirm that it is off before disassembly. Corroded valves, inaccessible joints, and uncertain piping are reasons to bring in a plumber.

Know what a successful repair feels like

On a small furniture assembly, tighten the nut while watching the bracket. The bracket should settle firmly without bending, and the bolt should not spin against an unprotected finished surface. If resistance rises abruptly before the parts meet, check for crossed threads or an obstruction.

Afterward, remove the tools and test the assembly through its normal motion. Wipe the jaws clean before putting them away. A wrench that fits closely and pliers used for deliberate gripping will solve more problems than either tool used with extra force.